4/30/2010

Seoul: hangul, street snacks, and college towns

Arrived in Seoul around noon today, just in time to escape the Expo chaos beginning in Shanghai. I had an argument with the airport security lady about my contact solution bottle being bigger than 100 mL, so I ended up pouring it into an empty pill bottle. There are NO signs saying you can't bring bottles on the plane and this was honestly the first time I had trouble getting things through security. We also had to take off our shoes. I think it's because of the Expo they've ramped up security, but it really is all a disorganized farce, like the security down in the subways. Anyway, the pill bottle isn't filthy or anything, but I hope I don't give myself eye problems...I just didn't know if I could find the solution I use for the corrective night-time lenses I wear.

That annoyance aside, everything has been great. I started picking up the Korean alphabet right away. Hangul has 24 letters, and I read somewhere that the shape of the characters mimicks the shape of your mouth when you say it. With Susan helping me learn the characters and sounds, I can basically read signs now, although I don't know what they mean--unless they're English words that have been Korean-ized. This is the first time I've been in a country where I don't understand the language, and it's kinda exciting.

The hostel is really clean, nice, and has wireless internet. We were all a little too giddy at how quickly websites were loading...a clear sign we've been stuck behind the Great Firewall for too long. Since we were all pretty tired, we just walked around the area we're staying in, Hongdae. Several colleges are here, including Ewa and Yonseh, two of the top universities in Korea with interesting histories. We walked over there and just explored the campuses. Since they were both built by American Christian missionaries, the architecture is very American. Also, the campus life feels very American too, compared to Chinese universities. It was so nice to see students out and about, club banners and posters everywhere, and people just having fun outside. University life in China is very dreary, at least at Nanjing.

As for food....For lunch, Sue and I had budae jjigae, or "army base stew", which has ramen, tofu, dok (niangao), hot dogs, and Spam. Sounds strange, but it was delicious and very filling. I was happy to see the many plates of different banchan. Afterwards while walking around, we tried some street food, even though we were still full. We paid 1000 won (90 cents) for a little bag of bungeoppang, which is a fish-shaped waffle pastry filled with red bean paste or custard, with some of the dough still a little gooey inside. We also had hotteok, which is like a thin pancake with cinnamon, sugar, and honey in the middle. The kind we had was all puffed up so it was a hollow pastry with a crunchy, cinnamony exterior. After a short nap at the hostel, we went back out in search of dak bulgogi, chicken barbeque. We ended up at a self-serve BBQ place, which was decent for 9000 won. Afterwards, we had Baskin Robbins ice cream. We were back in the university area, and again, I was struck by how many young people were just out and having fun.

Miles always says Chinese people are miserable people who don't know how to enjoy themselves, which is a sad comment...but I'm starting to see where he got that idea. I feel like China's spirit really was broken in the past 100 years because of both internal and external causes, and that has left a legacy on the society and spirit that exists today. South Korea also rebuilt themselves out of nothing, but the political and economic circumstances are so different... this is a complex issue that I am too tired to think about now.


Anyway, pretty much all we did today was eat, walk, and eat. But I am ok with that, because I love Korean food and everything is still relatively cheap, compared to the US. Tomorrow, we'll try and hit up some museums, have lunch with Susan's professor, and eat some more delicious food!

4/28/2010

What I do at work

Lately at the magazine office, I've been writing lots of English emails and calling firms in San Francisco, England, and New Zealand. The next issue is featuring "overseas Chinese" architects, but many of the architects they chose to interview are second or third generation Chinese. That's where the American intern comes in handy. I also had to translate my editor's husband's homework reading packet into Chinese...because that's where the American intern comes in handy.

At the architecture office, it's been more interesting and educational. I've moved on to the elevations for the Suzhou villas project. It's actually quite difficult...but I'm glad the boss has given me free rein over Unit B-6. The interior layout is ok, but I'm stuck on window placement and how to create courtyards/walkways.

The plan.


Started an elevation...but Chinese architecture has a lot of detail and decoration that I don't know, so right now it looks like crap.


Other than that, I do stuff for Mrs. Jin, like translate captions of postcards of her paintings or make Sketchup models to use for images later on.
A three story Hong Kong mansion (walls hidden)


Some project in Hangzhou. The master bedroom.


And in my free time, I make icons for my dock.
They're so beautiful.

4/25/2010

Cooking

I did a free physical exam at the gym. Did height and weight measurements, did pushups, figured out BMI, etc. At the end, the trainer told me I have athlete stats, that my body fat percentage is actually below normal...but my butt is a "problem area" and that my body type is more like white people's than Chinese. Ok trainer...... But really, I'm happy with how I am. I don't lose or gain weight easily, which is great since I love eating as well as exercising. Since coming to Shanghai, I've been cooking several times a week. The boys are too lazy to cook for themselves so I make them chop vegetables, pay me for ingredients, and clean in return for food. Win-win. I didn't really go out this weekend, but I cooked a lot...and ate a lot.
  • Yakisoba for Saturday lunch
  • Carrot cake with orange yogurt icing
  • Potato and ham chowder with garlic bread for Saturday dinner
  • Paneer
  • Croque monsieur with bechamel sauce for Sunday lunch (actually Michael did this, I was the helper for once)
  • Paneer mutter for Sunday dinner
  • Ginger-infused sugar syrup
I was pretty bummed out this weekend, and spending time in the kitchen helped cheer me up a little.

4/21/2010

Mr. Jin and Ishmael?

I complain a lot about inane conversations at work, but today was really good.

My boss, Mr. Jin, sat down to show me some pictures of some villas in the old Hui style. Courtyard houses were very common, composed of simple rectilinear blocks; the different pathways provided variations in space. There were rules about how many doors, windows, pillars, rooms, etc one could have and only the emperor was allowed to have decorations and frivolities in design.

Southeastern Anhui is a mountainous region and many villages lived in isolation from the kingdom. It was also an area of rich Hui merchants and because of the isolation, they often worked their way around design rules. Instead of 9 fancy pillars in the hallways, they'd make three big pillars and then ring each one with three, decorative pillars connected via delicate latticework. Instead of plain beams, they'd carve flowers and clouds onto them and hope that no officials would happen to drop by and look up at the ceiling. Back then, liberties with design meant beheading so these guys were gutsy.

(Huizhou was at its economic and cultural peak during the Song dynasty. The Cultural Revolution pretty much finished off--literally--the remaining merchants and landowners, and now Anhui is very poor.)

Then 100 years ago, Western influence came into China, bringing with it Western ideas of design and technology. Stone and concrete began replacing wood, which was now a limited resource. Furthermore, the concept of city began to change. Before, it had been a highly feudal setup, with a city being a king surrounded by establishments, which was surrounded by farms. Gradually, people began packing in together into smaller and smaller spaces, due to many reasons such as industrialization. This is a process we are continuing today. Shanghai has about 20 million people. I live in a box 200 feet off the ground.

Mr. Jin deplored this condition of living. He says the courtyard house, where people spend their time outdoors and under the sun, is the natural way for people to live. Xiao Yan then pointed out that only in the modern concept of city can there be technological progress. Marketplace of ideas, division of labor, etc.

Mr. Jin, "That's true. But the traditional living style lasted thousands of years. It worked. How long do modern cities last? Already we can see it's a failed model. You can argue progress is important for society, but the old way of living is important for people. "

This is the most beautiful thing I've heard so far in China.This argument may not make sense to some people, but anyone who has read Daniel Quinn's book Ishmael will understand completely.

Xiao Yan said, "I think the old ways perished because they weren't efficient at all. Survival of the fittest applies to ideas too."

Mr. Jin: "What we have today isn't survival of the fittest. Rather, it's the survival of whoever can eliminate the weakest the fastest. In nature, both the strong and the weak find a way to exist, for how else can we have diversity in the world? Diversity applies to culture as well."

I wanted to hug him. My boss is awesome. I feel like Mr. Jin may have also read Ishmael.

There is no way I can go into Quinn's philosophy briefly, but basically, humans currently live in a way that is not in accordance with nature's laws, which is why we are destroying ourselves and the planet. No amount of technology will change that. We have to realize that a way of life that works is one that lasts--what doesn't work is putting all of our energy in developing sustainable cities, making recycling programs, putting little bandages on huge problems in order to maintain our current way of life. As well-meaning as people are, I still shake my head at slogans like, "Better city, better life."

Well this blog entry got a little out of control…but Ishmael is one of the most important books I have read. Combine it with discussions about design and I am super excited.

4/19/2010

Identity

This past year in China has often seemed like a war of attrition on my nerves--how long can I survive in a foreign country without facebook and Mexican food? Of course I've gained a lot during my time here, such as a broader world view, and most things that I've been deprived of can easily be replaced, such as cheese enchiladas. However, there is one thing that is irrevocably lost and that is my sense of identity.

I'm sure every ABC (or child born to immigrant parents) at some point or another grapples with the feeling of not quite belonging to the society he/she grows up in. While I never experienced racism growing up, I was always acutely aware of my Chinese heritage. I know this sensitivity was largely due to my parents' influence and I still clearly remember some of my dad's lectures about how we had to study hard because it was the only way we could make it in a foreign society. My parents made sure that my sisters and I knew that deep, deep, deep down we were Chinese and that no white American would ever look at us and see otherwise. We had to be proud of our Chinese heritage, learn how to speak Chinese, and in the best case scenario, have Chinese kids. This constant reiteration of our Chinese-ness led to me thinking, "Hey, some of my values may be American, but I'm Chinese and my homeland is China." It made me uncomfortable saying, "I'm American." It made me think that studying abroad in China would be an easy transition.

After living in China for almost a year, I see how wrong I was. China is not a beautiful place that explains who I am and soothes that vaguely troubled part of my identity. Instead, it obliterated the idea that I'm Chinese. I saw clearly that China is a place full of people who live, think, work, and act differently than I do. Knowledge of language and culture do not make a person. Living here has made me see my homeland is America. It's made me see that all my relatives here are strangers. I've seen what real Chinese people believe in, what they hope for and dream about...and I am fundamentally different.

I have Chinese-American friends who still hold on to--cling to, really--the idea that they are Chinese and therefore different...and therefore special. They've only dated ABCs, only hang out with ABCs, joke about token white friends, proudly join Chinese-American clubs... but yet they don't speak Chinese, don't read Chinese, have never lived in China, know nothing about China's history or present. What does cultural pride mean if you know nothing about the culture? There's nothing wrong with having friends of the same cultural background. Some of my closest friends are Chinese-American. But I know too many naive ABCs who call white people "whiteys" and have an "azn crew". Purposefully surrounding yourself with people who look like you is the most superficial way of piecing together a fragmented identity. It only serves to show others that yes, you feel like you don't quite belong to the society that you live in.

I never liked the cliques of my Chinese-American peers, so growing up, I always felt doubly displaced. But now I see what I perceived as huge cultural differences were simply imaginary. I am very glad to have had the richness of growing up with two cultural influences, and I know my experiences in China will continue to affect me in the future. Perhaps I've lost the naive idea that I am Chinese, but I think I've gained a much clearer idea of who I am. At the very least, I've realized the distinctions between ethnicity, culture, and nationality...three concepts that don't seem difficult, but can be very muddled when you come from a Chinese background. To my ABC peers--you are not Chinese. You are Chinese-American. And that is OK.

4/18/2010

Eco Design Fair

Today, Michael, Werner, and I went to the 5th annual Eco Design Fair at Jiashan market. The weather was warm, a lot of people were out, and for the first time I noticed green leaves sprouting on the trees. Finally finally spring is here.

There was an organic farmers market, which was just a few stalls of small vegetables...amazing how we're so used to the jumbo-sized everything we find at supermarkets. I like farmers markets, but I didn't feel like spending 20 kuai on celery today. The courtyard area was eco-friendly baby products and clothing, but since I don't have a baby... There were also workshops and lectures throughout the day.

Adam Minter, blogger at shanghaiscrap.com, was one of the keynote speakers, and he gave a very interesting speech about the scrap recycling industry. His main point was that in order for recycling to become more efficient, it has to become more profitable. Recycling is already a huge industry. Although a lot of people disparage the recycling industry as dirty and a sham, most factories do their job efficiently and well. I learned that almost half the world's steel is from scrap...it gives me a newfound appreciation for the street scrap peddlars with their ridiculously overloaded bicycle carts.

After the speech, we went and got free vegan ice cream at the Freshary booth...black sesame and vanilla swirl cone. Two little French kids came up and asked for strawberry ice cream--in perfect Chinese. My brain was a bit confused.

We stopped briefly at Source, a clothing store/gallery, went to 85 C bakery, and then went home just as it started to rain. I guess Shanghai weather will always be this bipolar, even in the spring.

4/14/2010

Conversations with Coworkers

I told my coworkers I'm going to South Korea for the May holiday. Zhou Ying and Ye Zi said I should go to North Korea instead. I reminded them as an American, that is not possible...and besides, I find North Korea to be depressing. Then we had the following conversation:

"Depressing? North Koreans are very happy!"
"…how are they happy? They lead brain-washed lives."
"But they don't know they're brain-washed, so they're happy with what they have. They love their country so much! They're probably happier than we are, because they never have to worry about starving or finding a job or buying a house."
"uh... let's not even go into socialism. But is it true happiness if you're denied the truth? They still have a low quality of life, no matter how much they believe in their Great Leader."
"Well…I think you look at things from an American point of view."
"I look at things from a point of view that values the ability to think for oneself and allows individual freedom. Sure, you can call it American."

To be fair, Shi Xiong was on my side. He is also much older and has studied abroad. Being exposed to foreign cultures and ideas really makes a difference...

A few minutes later, Ye Zi started telling me how dangerous Xinjiang people are, how they always steal and are extremely violent. I think she saw my skeptical face, because she then hurried to reassure me that only Xinjiang people in Shanghai are dangerous…because a friend of hers went to Xinjiang and said the people there have normal, peaceful lives. Well, imagine that! I tried explaining to her that being a marginalized, underrepresented, poor part of society tends to make people resort to crimes. She insisted Xinjiang people are naturally prone to being criminals and selling drugs because their culture has a problem. At this point, I just turned around and went back to work.

I don't think my coworkers represent all Chinese people. But at this point, I've met so many--dare I say it--ignorant idiots, that I've already lost faith in Chinese opinions about the world. I know this isn't their fault, that their education system has huge, glaring problems, that their culture promotes conformity over creative thinking, etc... but at this point, I prefer American ignorance to Chinese ignorance.

4/10/2010

Chinese wedding games

My Chinese flatmate Paula got married today and the festivities started early in the morning. The cosmetician and all the bridesmaids arrived around 8. Around 10, the people downstairs set off a huge heart shaped "wreath" of firecrackers that lasted for several minutes. This is when the groom started coming up the elevator and the girls, all dressed up, hurried to the front door in anticipation for him to arrive.

Apparently, the tradition is to harrass the groom by giving him tasks to prove his devotion to the bride. The girls first demanded red envelopes before letting the groom in, so the guys outside started stuffing 红包 under the door (I got one too...20 kuai!). But money wasn't enough--after lots of loud negotiating and jokes in Shanghainese, the girls wanted him to do 20 pushups before he could enter. Miles was watching in the hall and said they didn't actually do them, but the guys got to come in, after "pushing" their way in past the girls' barrier.

That was just the front, main door. For the second door to the actual apartment, there were more tasks. All of us were standing in the hallway and just watching the hilarious 热闹. The men had to dance Swan Lake together, and then the groom had to sing 10 songs with the word "云“ in them. He could only think of two, even after checking online on his phone, so he appeased the bridesmaids by stuffing more 红包 under the door. Then he had to think of 20 positive qualities of the bride (respectful to elders, good handwriting!) and say "I love you" in 20 different languages or dialects (somehow bonjour and salut got included). Finally, this door opened...

...and one more door, the one to the bedroom. He had to write 20 promises to the bride (ie make a fortune and stay out at night with the guys for only 2 hours at a time). Finally he was granted access into the bedroom, where he had to find the bride's wedding shoes and put them on for her.

Things finally calmed down, tea was poured, photos taken. The couple was probably exhausted by this point, but they then had to go downstairs to the waiting limo to go to the groom's house for more games. After the ceremony and reception, apparently the friends will follow them back to their house to harrass them some more. Last night Paula told me a wedding is only fun for friends and family, and it definitely seems like it. They looked very happy together though.

4/07/2010

Tomb Sweeping Festival weekend

I remember visiting the burial mounds on my dad's side when I was very young. My aunt brought food and had us burn paper money. I didn't really understand what it was all about then...but all my ancestors are up north, so I spent this year's holiday hanging out in Shanghai.

Saturday--I visited the Yu Gardens with Anna and Werner. Beautiful place, but packed full of people.


Lots of detail, even in the roofs.

Afterwards, Michael and I went to "P-yoga" which we quickly discovered meant pilates-yoga...no fun, pilates is painful. Then, delicious vegan dinner at Godly with the flatmates and Jacki.

Sunday--went to the Shanghai Urban Planning Center. This is a cool museum, which shows the past, present, and future of Shanghai. I really like seeing the pictures of old Shanghai, as well as the room size model of the city. There is a special exhibit on the Expo, and as tired as I am of all the Expo propaganda, seeing all the designs and models made me pretty excited to see the real thing.





Then I went to Easter potluck at Susan's place, where I ate too much American food and amazing carrot cake made in a rice cooker.


Monday--we had the day off, so me and the flatmates went to the South Bund fabric market. This place is three stories of tailors and fabric, full of knockoff Burberry coats, traditional Chinese clothes and Versace suits--all custom-made. You bring the tailors a picture of whatever you want, pick a fabric, haggle a price, and the clothes will be done in a week. The boys were very bored...but Anna and I both got a casual qipao made, which I'm excited to see how it turned out. Then at night, went to burger night at Blue Frog Cafe, where I met more of Susan's expat friends.

And today--just got back from a North Korean film festival at Dada Bar, hosted by Koryo Tours. I only stayed for one of the documentaries, The Game of Their Lives, which is about the North Korean soccer team who nearly made it to the finals in the 1966 World Cup. Very interesting.

4/02/2010

The bad and the good

Things I am tired of:
  • Hour long commutes to work every day.
  • The bus driving in the bike lane during rush hour. That means I have to get off in the midst of 50 irate scooter drivers and seriously hope my fate isn't to die meaninglessly in China.
  • Rainy days almost every other day. The crappy weather in general. And it's been cold since November, where is spring??
  • Old women cutting me in line to get on the bus, for the checkout, every conceivable situation where a queue might be needed.
  • Coworkers talking about Happy Farm.
  • The smiling blue Haibao mascot and its creepy ubiquity...whatever size/material it's made of/outfit it's wearing, I just want to deface them.
  • Coworkers asking dumb questions about America
  • Censorship.
  • Coworkers who constantly emphasize which genders should do what activities or have what preferences. For women: driving small Japanese cars, cooking and cleaning, cutesiness. For men: sports, being professors, architectural design.

To balance out the negativity...things I'm happy about

  • New gym membership. Do yoga, workout, sit in the sauna.
  • My flatmates.
  • Mangos everywhere
  • I'm sure there are more, but I don't feel like racking my brain to make a fair list.

Three months. There are lot of things I miss.